BAY AREARealty and Construction INC.

Construction · June 24, 2026 · 8 min read

How to Choose a General Contractor in the Bay Area: 15-Point Checklist

By the Bay Area Realty & Construction team — the builder, brokerage & lending desk behind the numbers.

Verify the license and insurance before anything else

Every dollar you're about to spend rides on two documents, and both take five minutes to check. First, the CSLB license: search the number at cslb.ca.gov. You're confirming it's active, that the classification matches your work (a 'B' General Building license for most whole-project remodels), and that a contractor's bond and workers' comp are on file. An unlicensed 'handyman' on a $150K remodel isn't a bargain — it's your liability if someone is hurt and your problem if the work fails.

Second, insurance: ask for certificates of general liability and workers' compensation, then call the carrier or agent listed to confirm they're current. Contractors who carry real coverage produce these without hesitation. The ones who stall are telling you something.

The deposit and payment law most homeowners don't know

California law caps the down payment on a home-improvement contract at $1,000 or 10% of the contract price, whichever is less — not counting finance charges. A contractor asking for 30% or 50% up front is either unaware of the law or under-capitalized enough to need your money to start your job. Both are reasons to walk.

Legitimate payment schedules are tied to progress, not the calendar: a small deposit, then payments as defined milestones are completed and inspected, with a retention held until the punch list is closed. If the schedule front-loads the money before work is in place, the incentive to finish disappears exactly when you need it most.

Compare bids on scope, not totals

The most expensive mistake in hiring is choosing the lowest number. Three bids at $110K, $135K, and $95K aren't three prices for the same project — they're three different projects. The $95K bid is usually missing scope: permits, allowances set unrealistically low, ventilation, electrical capacity, or the structural work the other two included. That missing scope doesn't disappear; it returns mid-project as change orders, at change-order prices, when you have no leverage.

Line up the bids item by item. Are permits and design included? What are the allowances for cabinets, tile, and fixtures — and are they realistic for your selections? Who carries the contingency? A slightly higher bid with complete, honest scope is almost always the cheaper project when the dust settles.

Contract clauses that protect you

  • A fixed-price total with a defined scope of work — not 'time and materials' open-ended billing
  • Named allowances for every selection category, so overages are visible and yours to control
  • A written change-order process: no work outside the contract without a signed, priced change order
  • A progress-based payment schedule with a retention (typically 10%) held to completion
  • Start and substantial-completion dates, with how weather and city delays are handled
  • Warranty terms — California gives you statutory protection, but a written workmanship warranty is the mark of a builder who stands behind the work

Reference and site-visit questions that reveal everything

Ask for references from projects like yours, then ask those owners the questions that surface the truth: Did the final price match the contract? How were surprises and change orders handled? Did the crew show up consistently? Would you hire them again — and can I see the work? A contractor proud of their process will also let you visit an active job site, which tells you more in ten minutes than any brochure: is it clean, organized, and safe, or chaotic?

One more that cuts through everything: ask how they handle the thing that goes wrong. Every project has a surprise — knob-and-tube wiring, a hidden leak, a failed inspection. The honest answer isn't 'that never happens.' It's a clear description of how they document it, price it, and keep your schedule intact.

The 15-point checklist

  • 1. CSLB license active and correctly classified (verified at cslb.ca.gov)
  • 2. Contractor's bond on file
  • 3. General liability insurance — confirmed with the carrier
  • 4. Workers' compensation coverage — confirmed with the carrier
  • 5. Deposit no more than $1,000 or 10% of contract price
  • 6. Progress-based payment schedule tied to milestones
  • 7. Fixed-price contract with defined scope
  • 8. Realistic, named allowances for each selection category
  • 9. Written change-order process
  • 10. Start and completion dates in writing
  • 11. Permits explicitly included and pulled by the contractor
  • 12. Written workmanship warranty
  • 13. References from comparable, recent projects
  • 14. An active job site you can visit
  • 15. A clear, documented answer for how surprises are handled

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Frequently Asked Questions

How much deposit can a contractor legally ask for in California?+

For home-improvement contracts, the down payment is capped at $1,000 or 10% of the contract price, whichever is less (excluding finance charges). Anyone asking for more is outside the law — treat it as a red flag.

How do I verify a contractor's license?+

Search the license number at cslb.ca.gov. It's free and instant, and shows status, classification, bond, and workers' comp. Then request insurance certificates and confirm them with the carrier directly.

Should I always take the lowest bid?+

No — the lowest bid is usually the one missing scope. Compare bids line by line on what's actually included: permits, allowances, structural work, ventilation. A complete, slightly higher bid typically finishes cheaper than a thin one padded with change orders.

What's the single biggest red flag?+

A large up-front deposit. It signals either ignorance of California law or a contractor who needs your cash to operate. Combined with vague scope and no written change-order process, it's a reason to keep looking.

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